The most important thing is to recognise when these symptoms and factors appear. This can vary greatly between breeds, breed size and even individually as well, so it is often difficult to predict when a different diet will be required. The situation is further complicated as some symptoms may disappear as the dog ages. A recent study that showed that some 30% of dogs presented to vets were overweight at 6-8 years of age, but by 12 years of age a similar sample showed only 5% to fit this category while 16% were underweight. So, not all senior dogs should be fed a light diet. While the 'mixing bowl' composition is useful for knowing what went into the food, it doesn't always reflect what your dog is actually eating. This is because the processes that turn the ingredients into the finished pet food can significantly alter the relative weights of the ingredients. As your dog ages, there is a general decrease in energy needs, firstly due to a reduction in physiological needs but also due to reduced activity. Therefore, it makes sense to keep a close eye on any weight fluctuations and reduce the amount fed as required. On a physiological level, ageing can lead to a number of changes in your dog’s body, seniors often have lower glucose tolerance, less lean body mass, and reduced function from their kidneys (reduced kidney blood flow and glomerular filtration rate), their immune function, hormone secretion and response, brain and enzyme activity and mineral uptake/homeostasis can all be reduced too, making them more vulnerable to illness, environmental changes and digestion and absorption issues.

Firstly more energy: working or sporting dogs are likely to need either a higher energy diet like Dr. John Titanium or a good active maintenance diet like Dr. John Gold, with enough energy for activity, protein for growth, maintenance and repair of tissues and essential fats for condition and additional energy. Start by feeding towards the upper end of the recommended feeding requirements to get the right level to maintain condition in your dog. Feeding twice a day is ideal for most dogs, however, it needs to be at appropriate times for a working dog so they rest after eating to encourage good digestion before starting a period of work. At the other end of the spectrum, the racing Greyhound has been designed for immense speed, sprinting over short distances and extraordinary concentration on the lure but then followed by collapsing on the sofa at the end of the day. Racing Greyhounds need small biscuit based diets to suit their mouth size (like Dr John Grain Free) and the diet must be low bulk, high digestibility and high fat and with a good level of protein (24-25%) as this improves race times and prevents the development of anaemia which they are prone to. The mineral content of the diet is particularly important for greyhounds as they need up to 2-3 times the normal levels of a sedentary dog, to cope with the stress of racing. A supplement during race season may be needed to keep the Greyhound in good health. All puppies will develop slightly differently to each other depending on their environment and genetics but they all will go through the same stages during the first 12 weeks from birth.Days 35-42: Puppies become coloured (skin pigment develops) and the mother’s stomach continues to swell. Dr John knows exactly what they are doing and they always have nutrition in mind when creating their foods. There are a vast amount of health benefits which include: The cycle lasts between 14 and 28 days and begins from when bleeding is first noticed. If you intend to breed, then find out as much as possible about the subject beforehand, your breeder, vet and the Kennel Club are all good sources of information to ensure the best outcome. Normal symptoms & what to watch out for

Decide in advance whether your dog will be allowed upstairs and how to discourage any explorations or the puppy from simply following you up. Baby gates can be a good temporary solution to open stairs. Puppies are not able to manage stairs so will need carrying until you can teach them how to safely crawl up and down.

REPRODUCTION – THE HEAT CYCLE

Dr John has a wide range of dog food available which includes: Dr John Puppy Food, Dr John Hypoallergenic, Dr John Titanium, Dr John Silver, Dr John Gold and Dr John Grain-Free Dog Food. We can’t seem to find many alternatives that quite match Dr John Dog Food. There are a few grain-free products out there, but we really are very impressed with Dr John. If your budget can stretch to it, we would highly recommend grabbing a bag. We are certain that your furry friend will lap it up! With their wide range of available foods, you can be sure to find something to suit your pooch, whether you have a fluffy little pup, or a really old doggie, there is certainly something for you in the Dr John Dog Food range. It’s worth considering working dogs separately to pets with regard to dietary requirements. Rather like human athletes, they can have a variety of different additional needs, dependant on the work they carry out or sport they engage in, however, some general principles apply with working dogs. Once you are home, allow the puppy to stretch its legs in the garden and then introduce your puppy to the areas of your home they will be in and any new family members and pets. It’s best to start with an activity routine immediately, although, remember that puppies don’t need walks like an adult dog does and over-walking will excessively tire a puppy and can cause some harm to developing joints. Simply exploring the garden and little games with you will be enough to start with.

Symptoms of hunger, shivering in the cold and fatigue can be early signs that your dog needs a higher energy formula. It may be that you have been feeding a light diet to prevent your dog gaining weight, cutting out treats to prevent bad behaviour, or perhaps started keeping your dog cooler to improve coat condition. All these minor changes can have an effect on your dog’s metabolic rate and nutritional requirements. Collar: This should be a light weight type that fits well now. There are fabric versions with extensions which would last most of the growth period. There should be room to easily move the collar around but not to come over the head when tugged lightly. Pet insurance: Many puppies will come from a breeder with a week or two of insurance cover but it is important to arrange a new policy yourself as soon as possible. Lifetime insurance may be worthwhile considering, as some 12 month policies will exclude conditions for which a claim has been made when the policy comes up for renewal.

HOW MUCH FEED

Food and water bowls: These need to be heavy bottomed dishes to ensure they don’t tip over & made of material that cannot be chewed. Puppy sized versions are available which will allow easier access for small puppies. The duration of pregnancy in dogs can range from anything between 57 – 69 days. Feeding well throughout this period should ensure a successful outcome and healthy well-fed pups. For the first 35 days there is no need to increase the amount to feed, simply feed as normal and monitor appetite, digestion and condition. You may notice that during week 4 and 5 of pregnancy she loses her appetite, which in most cases is entirely normal and indicative of pregnancy. However, in the last third of the pregnancy period she will need to have her food increased by approximately 10% a week so that when she is ready to give birth she is having 1.5 times her maintenance amount. As the pups increase in size in her, her stomach capacity is reduced so feed her little and often or through free choice feeding. FEEDING FOR LACTATION For this reason we would suggest trialing Dr John first to see if you can notice any improvements for a month or so. This will also give you the time to notice whether or not your dog has had any reactions Dr John. Newspaper/training pads. These can help with house training your puppy at the start and catching any accidents inside. Also very useful for visits to new environments/households where you want to introduce your puppy.