Ornamental plants grown in containers can be treated with the systemic neonicotinoid insecticide acetamiprid (e.g. Bug Clear Ultra Vine Weevil Killer) as a liquid drench applied to the compost. This insecticide gives protection against the grubs for up four months; treatment in mid- to late summer will control the young larvae and prevent damage occurring later in the autumn to spring period. This product cannot be used to treat edible plants or ornamental plants growing in the ground The white C-shaped larvae then emerge into the soil from June and start to eat the roots of the plant. They can feed until October. Commercial nurseries may sometimes add chemicals to the compost to control them. It is always worth asking when you are buying particularly susceptible plants if any such chemicals have been used.

The female weevils lay their eggs in the compost or soil among host plants. As a rule, this happens in August and September, though a lot depends on the weather during the previous winter and spring. In a mild year, egg-laying could start in early summer. Each female is capable of laying 1000 or more eggs. These eggs are less than 1mm across, white at first, later turning brown. They are difficult to see and much smaller than the granules of controlled-release fertiliser found in container-grown plants, which are often mistaken for insect eggs. More serious is the damage can becaused by the soil-dwelling larvae, which are plump, white, legless grubs up to 10mm (about 3/8in)long with pale brown heads. These eat the roots of a wide range of plants andcan bore into tubers of cyclamen and begonia, and into stem bases of cacti and succulents. They can kill woody plants by gnawing away the outer tissues of the larger roots and stem bases. Most plant losses occur during September to March, when the grubs are becoming fully grown. Encourage wildlife in the garden. Vine weevils and their grubs are eaten by a variety of predators such as birds, frogs, toads, shrews, hedgehogs and predatory ground and rovebeetles A full list includes: Arisaema, Aster, Astilbe, Azalea, Begonia, Bergenia, Camellia, Cyclamen, Echinacea, Epimedium, Euonymus, Fuchsia, Heuchera, Hosta, Hydrangea, Busy Lizzie, Kalmia, Lily, Peony, Phlox, Primula, Polyanthus, Raspberry, Rhododendron, Saxifrages, Sedum, Strawberry, Syringa, Yew and Wisteria. Vine weevil damage Adult vine weevils nibble on your plant leaves at night, but it’s actually the larvae that do most of the damage by eating your roots in the soil.They’re the best treatment for vine weevil, since it’s a safe, natural treatment with no chemicals. Although vine weevil is one of the most troublesome of all garden pests the gardener now has some very effective methods of control options. In the first instance, look for signs of damage to leaves, which might indicate the presence of vine weevil. Plants that do not appear to be growing as well as they should, are sure signs that the vine weevil grubs may be active below ground. It can be used from April to September. April and August/September are the vine weevil's main egglaying times.

If you spot golden-brown or clear egg-like objects in the soil or compost then they're NOT vine weevil eggs. Vine weevil eggs are brown and tiny and you'd need a hand lens to see them. Clear spheres are usually slug or snail eggs and the golden-brown ones are actually controlled-release fertiliser!The adult beetles feed on the foliage of many herbaceous plants and shrubs, especially Rhododendron, evergreen Euonymus , Hydrangea , Epimedium, Bergenia, Primula and strawberry. Adults rarely cause enough damage to affect the vigour of plants. However, they can’t jump upwards, and they can’t fly. So if you see a bug doing either of these things, you’re looking at a different pest. Vine weevil-resistant plants